“Year after year, I always try to outdo myself, in almost every aspect of my life. Eating healthier, working out harder, being a better friend, etc. It’s not always that easy to push yourself to do better, but it’s always possible. I wanted to figure out what others are thinking when they know they have to push it to the limit. How do they overcome the thought of failure, or how do they stay in that mentality every day?”
Makua Rothman, a North Shore boy of Hawaii, started surfing at the age of two with his father Eddie Rothman, who founded Da Hui, a group of local-only surfers in Oahu. With his father and father’s friends at his disposal for surfing knowledge, Makua excelled in surfing. But get this: Makua was actually born with asthma, and as a former asthmatic myself, I could see how that could be a bit tough on young Makua. His father encouraged him to try many other sports in order to outgrow asthma and it actually helped in the long run.
In 2002, Rothman won his first surfing competition, but not just any type of competition. Makua entered in Big Wave Surf. Makua held the record of surfing the largest wave at 66 feet that year. Now if you aren’t familiar with the different types of surfing competitions, Big Wave is the most dangerous of them all. A real test of how far you are willing to go to catch the hugest wave you have ever seen. I asked Makua what kind of mindset is needed to compete during big wave competitions. He confirmed the idea that you really need to be an expert at one thing and one thing only.
“ You gotta be balls to the wall, You gotta be all in and fully committed to it. Whether your surfing or anything … racing cars … whatever. You gotta have 100% percent confidence …Fully committed. Everything you’ve done up to this point has prepared you for this.”
You really have to see the clips of these guys. These waves I’m talking about are the size of buildings. This outlook on skills that Makua has placed in his life reminded me of the theory that if you practice something for 10,000 hours, you will be an expert at it. When I mentioned this to Makua, he simply replied, “Nah man. I’ve never heard of that phrase. I’ve just been doing this surfing thing my whole life (laughs). Just straight surfing man”. Clearly surfing and the ocean is rooted deeply in Makua, a bond no type of western theory could explain.
2 weeks in Fiji May-June 2012
In 2014, Rothman claimed the World Title of WSL Big Wave Surf, undoubtedly one of the most astonishing moments in his life. Can you imagine how it would feel to be World Champ? That is a title that holds the most gravity in many people’s eyes. Last year, Makua actually lost his title, a moment he admits he wasn’t at 100% for.
“I was definitely not prepared and I should have definitely been more prepared you know … one heat … one more place would have been another world title” he says. “You know man, right after that, I was right back into the gym. I was training as hard as I could and after, I got to Todo Santos more ready than ever. I don’t know how but I should have made that final heat. To just be that close and surf stronger than ever was a bummer, but to come back from that adversity and challenge really shows your true champion spirit.”
With Makua being such a down to earth guy, I had to ask him how he stays in such a positive state when he gets ready for these competitions:
“It’s just really all focus and knowing who I am … just like any other athlete thats trying to be at the top, they just go through the motions and the rest is really up to mother nature.. Its just themselves and mother nature”
Not only is he a champion in his sport, but Makua is also an established musician. Signed with the Mountain Apple Company, Makua expresses unity with his homeland through music.Thankfully his album is available on Apple Music and you can check it out here.
Makua’s story really inspired me. I was really curious to see how a world class athlete thinks. How does he stay mentally afloat? What drives him to be the best he can be? I lastly asked him what kind of advice would he give to someone trying to be the best. He simply left it at:
“Believe in yourself. Prepare your mind and body for anything and everything. Practice makes perfect man.”
Written by Gelo Espejo
Photos via Makua Rothman
